Getting to the trail May 6
- Start: NM Hwy 81, 25.4 miles north of the border, headed south
- End: 22 miles north of the border headed south
- 3.2 miles
- High: Feeling like I have no where I have to be and can luxuriate in just being where I am.
- Low: nausea
I was dropped off later in the day after a beautiful afternoon sitting by Elephant Butte Lake. While enjoying the view, and hoping someone might offer us a boat ride, we sipped margaritas. Having taught ski lessons just six days prior the heat of New Mexico was something I knew I would have to adjust to. Even in the shade the late afternoon heat was stifling.
We continued on our way and enjoyed a late lunch of delicious Mexican food. I chose the sopapillas with beans. I spent most of the car ride fairly nauseous. I don’t know if it’s because the food was richer than I am used to eating, or if it was the heat, or upon further reflection perhaps the sugary margarita. My guess is it’s a combination of all of those things with the heat.
After being dropped off, I pushed my way through scratchy prickly brush of the desert. Through the clusters of prickly leaves, the trail was very apparent, in some areas, and in others it was hard to distinguish the trail from the cow paths. About 3 miles into my hiking for the day I realized I was most definitely not on trail. I checked my digital map and realized I was about a quarter mile off trail and found a level enough spot to call it done for the day. I would reroute in the morning with a clear mind.
The first night on trail always feels like a homecoming for me. The sounds of wildlife in the desert actually pick up in the evening, letting me know that while I am alone, I’m not really. The desert night sky is absolutely stunning. Being farther from the light pollution of towns helps you better see the infinite number of glistening stars up in the sky.
Headed to the border May 7
- Start: 22 miles north of the border headed south
- End: 2.8 miles north of the border headed south
- 19.3 trail miles, 20.97 GPS tracked miles
- High: Meeting other hikers
- Low: dead cow
Today I met my first 3 thru hikers. Hippie Kippie came first hiking towards me in his chacos. He told me about another fellow behind him that he had enjoyed hiking with yesterday, but didn’t make it to camp with him. I met that fellow shortly thereafter who told me he lost the trail shortly after the wash and it slowed him down some. That made me feel better about the necessity of my own reroutes. As long as I am headed in the right general direction it should work out in the end.
I hiked off trail to find a water cache. It added almost a mile to my day, but it was hot and I was thirsty. Looking ahead at the comments on my navigation app it seemed as though their were few water sources, many of which were dry. I did see a comment about the possibility of another cache just a few miles from the border, but it was over a month old. I had no way of knowing for sure if there was water there. If not it would be a 26+ mile water carry. I left with about 5 Liters of water and hoped it would be enough. As the sun beat down on me, the day approaching solar noon, I found a mediocre shade spot where brush was overhanging the 3ft high edge of the wash I had been walking down. I made myself a beautiful red lentil vegetable curry over rice and checked the map. I was only a half mile from a shade tree another hiker had dubbed “The Tree of Life”. After enjoying my lunch, I packed up and relocated my break.
As the day wore on I ended my break and headed toward the border. I met the third hiker of the day relaxing in some shade. She goes by Disco and offered me some of the shade, but I was determined to get as close to the potential water source as I could. I was going through what I carried faster than I expected and if I need to ration it to last 26 miles, the sooner I know the better. I continued hiking on, but not without the guilt of knowing I had turned down her kindness. She seemed excited to tell me I was the first hiker she had met. I let her know that there were 2 just ahead. I don’t know why I didn’t think to ask her about the cache.
I set up camp less than a mile from the crossing with the possible water cache. I only had about a liter of water left. I could be in trouble if the cache doesn’t exist. The earlier start I get the more likely I can make the 13 miles if there is no cache. My last views of the night are shadows cast by a ridge in the last light and twinkling out ahead of me on the horizon. I wonder if it’s a town. The border is only a few miles away, maybe it’s the lights on the border.
Day 1 tagging the border May 8
- Start: 2.8 miles north of the border headed south
- End: 20.1 miles north of the border on the road alternate
- 22.9 trail miles, 23.2 tracked GPS miles
- High: Rabbit sighting at dusk
- Low: getting my period leaving me feeling extra low energy
I was up and hiking by 5:30 in the morning and so grateful for the water cache that was in fact there. I set a goal of tagging the border and making it to the Tree of Life for a long mid-afternoon break. I considered dropping my pack at the cache and going light to the border, but I wasn’t comfortable with that so I carried the extra weight.
On a short 5 minute break on my way to the Tree of Life, I met Peri-Mamba. He’s doing 2 sections he missed last year and hoping to make it all the way to the water cache by Hwy 81 today. I am so impressed! That’s a 25 mile day to start with. My calves are overly tight, my right heel hurts, and behind my knees feel like all the attachments are made of overly tightened rubber bands about to snap.
Knowing my body recognizes the trauma of day after day long distance backpacking, I treated myself to some stretching, hydration, and nutrition under the Tree of Life. I rested for almost 2 hours before heading to the cache just 2 miles down trail. I was considering camping there, having water at camp sounded delightful, but the pull to keep hiking was strong.
I passed the dead cow again today. Yesterday it was unsettling as I passed it. I think it was because my head was down looking at the loose sand ahead of me. The first thing I spotted was the cow’s bottom jaw. A perfect row of strong teeth popped into my sightline before looking up and seeing the fuller picture. Something about the jaw full of perfect teeth laying totally lifeless unsettled me more than approaching from the ass end today. Seeing the open and decomposing hole with flies in it made more sense in myh brain than those perfect white teeth.
While at the cache I met 4 more hikers. Fauna was immediately friendly as he offered me shade and introduced Courier and Eating. As they departed Eating offered me a chili mango lollipop, my first piece of trail magic. Courier and Eating were headed to the border so I may see them again. I sure hope so. As they took off, Lights Out arrived. He came and went while I continued to enjoy my long breaks.
I did see wildlife beyond the dead cow today as well. I was started by a steer (is that what you call the ones with horns) and turned my head to notice a calf and cow as well. I snapped a quick selfie and continued on so as to not disturb them. Later I realized I missed the horned steer but did catch the baby and momma. Just before making camp I saw a giant eared wild rabbit. It was so cute! I got a little video before my shadow scared it away.
Day 2 May 9
- Start: 20.1 miles north of the border, road alternate
- End: CDT mile 41.8
- 22.4 trail miles, 23.83 tracked GPS miles
- High: Afternoon break
- Low: Realizing I have 3 chili’s in the resupply, and dealing with an inconsistently writing pen
This morning I met Nine Lives early in the day. He helps with shuttles and was out doing a section to take notes on what needs maintenance and improving. I am so appreciative of everyone who comes together to make the trail accessible. He let me know they knew someone was out there who did not take the shuttle but wasn’t sure who it was. Now they knew. I was surprised and curious to hear that.
I ate a breakfast of granola with protein powder while sitting in the shade of the cache box. I really enjoyed the change up from my good ole reliable oatmeal. While I was sitting there Lights Out came up to join me. We opted to hike together and covered all sorts of topics from our personal history to linguistics. We enjoyed some leisurely rest under a shade tree and met Rabbit Stick, who seemed to be having a tough day. Apparently he had just returned from an 8 day hiatus from hiking to allow for some blisters to heal. He did say that maybe this is just a younger man’s game. Rabbit Stick took off first, I left next, and Lights Out said he was going to enjoy more of a nap.
Overall I really enjoyed todays’ hiking. I am impressed with how well my body feels for having done three 20+ mile days to start of this adventure. My feet ache some, but no more than any other 20 mile day.
Day 4 May 10 Hachita
- Start: CDT mile 41.8
- End: CDT mile 52.1
- 10.3 trail miles, 10.2 tracked GPS miles (I hiked a 1/2 mile before I started my watch)
- High: Human connections
- Low: foot and ankle rash
I absolutely love being out here! As I slowly packed up camp I saw Rabbit Stick. He was moving much better and seemed in better spirits. It was the right time for me to get to know him as I wasn’t in a rush. He mentioned being in Germany as the wall came down and I had to ask how old he was. He mentioned signing up for the armed forces in ’62. He is 80! Let’s emphasize that, HE IS 80!!! I am so impressed that he has the ambition and ability to even be out on trail. He said he was quitting, but also laughed because on the previous trails he had a hard time in the beginning too. Whatever he chooses, he will be my friend who set out on a CDT adventure at 80!
At the road we parted ways for now and I hitched a ride with a local man into Hachita. I was surprised he turned around for me in his electric company truck. He even mentioned it was his boss in the truck behind him, they both had swung back around for me. He asked if I had seen any illegals and explained that there are panic boxes throughout the area. They include signs of weary travelers warning of death. If someone is in a bad situation they can push that button and border control comes to get them. I hope in those cases they are treated humanely. He also showed me a night camera photo of a lion in the area just last night. I joked that I was glad I was walking away from the are, because that thing looked strong! I was dropped off at the community center where I met two adorable pups and two fellow travelers.
I took a walk down to the Hachita store. I didn’t really need anything, but I read a comment saying they stocked vegetarian food and are really trying to listen to hikers needs. I want to support any small business that is so willing to support me. While at the store I chatted with Radar, he takes responsibility for the water caches, and the woman working there.
Back at the community center I did laundry in a tub outside and hung it in a tree to dry. I got to know 301, a hiker who is here to support some friends. |We sat on the shady stoop and he let me pet his dog and Hippie’s dog. While we were sitting out there Hippie arrived off of the shuttle from the monument. Hippie later introduced me to Kittie Hawk and Carmen SanDiego who all know each other from the PCT.
That afternoon 301 brought me back to the trail. I did 7 miles and found some wind protection behind some bushes. I am on track to possible make it to town on Friday, early enough to get to the library. It just requires me to do a 20 mile day tomorrow.
As I brushed my teeth the dry desert wind was so much that it was drying my mouth out. I had to brush lips closed. I also found a rash on both feet that burns and itches some. It reminds me of the chigger bites I once got down in Panama. My back feels prickly so I hope it isn’t there too. Maybe by morning it will settle down and all will be good.